What Is Retinol And How Should I Use It?
Retinol is one of the most studied and dermatologist-recommended ingredients in skincare—and for good reason. A form of vitamin A, retinol can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone, dark spots, and skin texture while supporting collagen production over time. But retinol can also be confusing: When should you start using it? How often should you apply it? Can sensitive skin tolerate it? And what should you use with it? Here, we break down what retinol does, how to introduce it into your skincare routine, and how to get its benefits while minimizing irritation.
1. What Exactly Is Retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to a larger family of ingredients known as retinoids. Used topically, retinol helps accelerate skin cell turnover and support collagen production, which can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, dark spots, and skin texture over time. Unlike prescription retinoids such as tretinoin, retinol is available over the counter and is generally considered a gentler introduction to the benefits of vitamin A skin care.
2. What Are The Different Forms Of Retinol?
The strongest form or retinol is retinoic acid. This form is available only by prescription.
Then comes pure retinol (this is what we use in our Sérum jeunesse rétinol).
Then come retinol derivatives, such as retinol palimate. You will recognize these as these compounds are two words and usually end in "ide" or "yde" or "ate".
3. Who Should Use Retinol?
There is no single “right” age to start using retinol. Retinoids may be used earlier to address concerns such as acne, uneven texture, or pigmentation. For age-management specifically, Dr. Polla recommends incorporating retinol into your routine by your mid-30s, when changes in collagen production and visible signs of skin aging become more noticeable.
4. Who Should NOT Use Retinol?
Nursing and pregnant women. Anyone who is absolutely averse to any side effects (such as flaking) whatsoever, no matter how well a product works.
5. What is Advanced Retinol Serum?
This serum features 0.75% pure retinol, and a number of additional anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating ingredients to prevent the flaking, dryness, and sensitivity associated with retinol.
Our formulation also features a proprietary Time Release Technology: part of the retinol is loaded inside a sponge-like mechanism, something akin to a “reservoir”; over 24-48 hours after application, the natural sebum in our skin dissolves the “sponge,” thus releasing the retinol little by little. This timed and controlled release of the active enables its use at efficacious levels, with minimal irritation and fewer side effects that are typically associated with retinol. Dryer skin types with less sebum will have a slower retinol release versus oilier skin types – which is desired as retinol irritation is typically greater the dryer the skin.
6. What Other Ingredients Are We Using?
To enhance the anti-aging benefits of the product and minimize irritation and side effects, we are using a cocktail of antioxidants with nourishing, calming, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Hyaluronic acid (Sodium hyaluronate) - Hydration, skin plumping
- Jojoba Oil - Hydration
- Vitamin E - Hydration, antioxidant
- Vitamin C derivative (Ascorbyl glucoside) - Antioxidant, brightening effect, non-photo-sensitizing form of Vitamin C
- European Blueberry - Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness
- Green Tea - Soothing, calming, anti-inflammatory
- Red Clover (Isoflavones) - Antioxidant, calming & soothing, stimulates the skin’s natural collagen production
- Edelweiss - Antioxidant, natural sun protection filaments
- Apple Stem Cells - Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
7. How To Use Advanced Retinol Serum?
Apply a pea-sized amount in the evening to clean, dry skin, on face and neck, avoiding the eye area, two times per week. Follow with a moisturizer to buffer the product if desired. This is a product to use exclusively at night.
As retinol will make sure skin more sensitive to the sun, make sure you protect your skin with SPF daily. Protect your results by using our Protective Day Cream SPF 23 every morning.
For those with sensitive skin, start off using once per week to allow skin to acclimate, and gradually work up to recommended frequency of use. Flaking and redness may be possible. Avoid facial waxing for 72 hours pre and post application.
